RECONSTRUCTING LATE ROMAN AND EARLY MEDIEVAL SILK SAMITES FROM EGYPT. RESEARCH ON TECHNIQUES

In the late 19th century many silken weft-faced compound twills have been discovered in necropolis in Egypt. They are now distributed to museums all over the world. The burials where the garments have been found have been dated to 4th-9th centuries AD, but due to their early discovery most of the silks have been separated from their original garments and lack a secured context. The PhD-project “Complex silk fabrics from the area of the Roman Empire from Late Roman and Early Medieval times” gives these precious fabrics back some of their context. Located at the University of Bonn, Department of Christian Archaeology, it investigates western silk samites, their origin, manufacturing process and distribution. While the recent history of the objects is one part of the research, the main part focuses on the detailed technical analysis of the preserved textiles: The non-invasive visual analysis of yarns, warp and weft proportions, pattern width, steps and weft sequences allows to draw very detailed conclusions on the technique that was employed to produce these weft-faced compound twills. Mapping irregularities in the finely woven fabric, mounting and weaving faults helps to trace pieces of the same production units and to reconstruct the actual weaving process. The silk samites at the Deutsches Textilmuseum Krefeld act as an example for analysis. Their technical features will be examined in detail and tested in practice: Together with the skilled silk-weavers at the Haus der Seidenkultur Krefeld the techniques are reproduced with simple handlooms and theories are reviewed. Later a workshop will teach the technique of weaving samite to scholars and researchers. This workshop-project, which is funded by the Sparkassen-Kulturstiftung Krefeld, engages the centuries-old knowledge of silk weaving in modern textile research and passes on the fascinating technique of these luxurious Late Roman fabrics. Author(s): Köstner, Barbara (Universität Bonn; Deutsches Textilmuseum Krefeld; Haus der Seidenkultur)